Episode 4 - Lucca, a real gem

Thurs 1st June

A short drive to  Lucca, a Tuscan town we have visited some years ago, but in the Autumn, when it was largely empty, and wet. For 500 years Lucca was an independent republic, and is surrounded by seriously impressive ramparts, still all complete. Circumference 4.2 miles, height 20 feet, width at the top between 20 and 40 feet, and lined with Horse Chestnut trees for shade - a really nice, cool, promenade, well used by walker and cyclists.

these walls completely encircle the city

Within the town itself, some very impressive churches, and a Roman amphitheatre. The Roman structure had had houses, shops and restaurants built around it, incorporating the original buildings and entrance arches and retaining the arena floor, making a most attractive square. The area was filled with slums in the 19th century, but these were cleared away, and restaurants now line the entire inner perimeter. When we were here in the Autumn the outdoor restaurants had been cleared away,and it looked much more authentic.

Amphitheatre - now and in the 60s

We are running out of essentials - beer, wine and milk - and found a small supermarket for all these. I do love pastries - and the bakery counter had on display some large, flat, delicious looking things, called “treccie con cioccolato o ovetta e canditi”. Delicious they certainly are! Ours included a taste I have not experienced since childhood - crystalised angelica. I wonder if that is still available in the UK? A unique and unforgettable taste.

Lucca is Puccini’s birth place, and they are very proud of him. There are monthly outdoor Puccini concerts in the square outside of his house, and in front of his statue (shown smoking a cigarette). Tonight’s was La Boheme, a concert version. Mimi certainly didn’t look as if she was fading away from consumption - quite the reverse - but we watched the entire performance.

Puccini - born in the house behind

you canˋt see his hand, so maybe that's the reason for her expression...

We are on a large sosta just 10 minutes walk from the walls. It costs E10 per night, but could not be in a better position. (There is another sosta somewhere that costs E25 pn)

N43.8397 E10.488 height 230 feet.

Fri 2nd June

Today is Republic Day, a public holiday. We started off by walking around most of the walls. Very cool and pleasant, before dropping down into the town. Interestingly, we passed several defibrillators, and more available in town. Being a tourist town, restaurants are not cheap, but there are numerous little snack bars selling take away stuff at reasonable prices. Being a holiday, most of the shops - even tourist shops - are closed.

wedding shoot on the walls

We visited Palazzo Pfanner, a lovely large house that belonged to Felix Pfanner, who set up a beer brewery there in the middle of the 19th century, one of the first breweries in Italy (THAT was a surprise!). He had been a brewer in Austria. The house is still owned by the Pfanner family, and there is a very peaceful, green and cool garden. (The single toilet has no window and no working light, which made life interesting for a while. Luckily my phone has a built in torch).

these are all marble fruit

We ate in the van - there are limits to our funds! Then I set off to storm round the walls with my Nordic walking poles. By the time I finished the circuit it was dark, and I walked another quarter of the circuit before I realised I had gone too far, and had to ask someone where I was.

the prisoner of Lucca

Sat 3rd June

Almost the best thing about being in this part of the world is waking up with the expectation of a warm and dry day, without having to wonder whether to take a waterproof - and today was no exception. We spent the morning just wandering the streets admiring the shops, yesterday being a holiday and tomorrow being Sunday. We ate at Trattoria da Leo, ViaTagrimi, recommended in Lonely Planet as being good and cheap, and frequented by locals. And surprisingly, it was. Usually a Lonely Planet recommendation adds a considerable premium. We paid E50 for antipasti and secondo courses, ½ litre wine and all the usual extras.

outside a bar...

After that filling lunch we didn’t need much for tea, but went to our usual bar and drank a bottle of Prosecco while catching up on news from home. It seems that Mrs May is managing to lose her initial huge lead in the polls big time.

Sleeping off lunch

Sun 4th June

So much for yesterday`s confident prediction about the weather. Today is overcast, and some spits and spots of rain:(.

Allah the Merciful has again shown how merciful he is in London. I can't think why I'm an atheist!

This afternoon we visited the botanic gardens. Small, but perfectly formed. There’s a rather nice pond and bog garden, with lillies , huge fish, and terrapins.