Sat 17th June
We had planned to catch a bus into Sienna today - the bus actually pulls into the campsite. However, because the schools have just closed for the summer, the weekend bus timetable is pretty rubbish, so we are having a couple of quiet days on site. During a stroll from the site we discovered we were only a 15 minutes walk from the village, although the road route had been long and circuitous. This village is completely untouristy, there being only a single and part time shop.
We were back in time for the sky to suddenly blacken and the heavens to open. Our German neighbours were in Sienna (and got very wet), so we took in their washing and stowed their chairs. Then as quickly as it had arrived, the rain stopped, the sun came out, and by mid afternoon you would never have guessed it had rained at all.
Apart from the rain, it is very hot - too hot. But according to the BBC weather app, it is almost as hot in England. And Lisbon, another favourite destination, is over 40°.
Sun 18th June
Rosemary has walked into the village to do some sketching, while I almost reach the end of Bill Bryson's "The Road to Little Dribbling". On every page there is at least one laugh out loud paragraph.
Mon 19th June
Today we have been abroad for 5 weeks.
The first bus into Sienna leaves at 08:55 - and we were on it. That got us into Sienna, close to the centre, by 09:30. That was a good time to get there - it hadn't got crowded, and it was still reasonably cool.
We have a walk from Lonely Planet that takes us around the sites. It started at the Duomo (cathedral), and whilst there we bought entrance tickets (€4 each),intending to use them when we had finished the walk. However we discovered they were timed - for 10.30, so we had to hang around a while waiting for it to open. We were amongst the first in, and generally got uncluttered views of its famous inlaid marble floors. By the time we left it was full of tours, with tour guides explaining into microphones. We should have waited - by mid afternoon all the tours had departed, and there were many fewer visitors. By any standard, it is a lovely cathedral.
Then we carried on with our walk. Chiesa di San Dominico has the head of St Catherine in a fancy box - the rest of her is in Rome. Who says you can't be in two places at once? Halfway round we stopped for lunch - there's a huge number of restaurants, cafes and delis to choose from. We spent €25 on a sharing platter for 2 - a selection of meats, cheeses, olives, tomatoes, water and bread.
The heat increased in the afternoon, although in a number of places there were nice breezes. By mid afternoon we were well knackered, and sticky, and caught a bus back at 15:55. When we here some years ago we stayed at a sosta and walked in, but it was good to go back to a shady campsite.
Tues 20th June
The site has cost us €21 per night, including taxes. We have moved on a few miles to San Quirico D’Orcia, another hilltop town (they’re all hilltop towns). Pleasant, very few tourists, but the cafes were more expensive even than Sienna. We have quite taken to going out for a glass of Prosecco in the evening - it’s a sort of lemonade for adults. There is a little ice cream shop that is open from 9 pm to 11.30 pm - very civilised, and the ice creams are delicious.
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| seen during an evening stroll in San Quirico D’Orcia |
The sosta is supposed to cost €10 per night, but the ticket machine isn’t working, and the coin slot is taped over - pity about that (but we spent the money in town, instead)
N43.05607 E11.60682
Wed 21st June
We walked into town again to a do a bit of shopping - but there was only one, rather poor, supermarket. Then on less than 4 miles to see the thermal pool at Bagno Vignoni. Parking for motorhomes is in a rather unkempt car park, getting on for half a mile from the pool. The path is uphill, in full sun, and when we got there we found it was primarily hotels and “wellness centres”, and other opportunities to spend money. The pool itself was small and murky, and showed no signs of being particularly hot.
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| thermal pool (if you look carefully) |
We are now at a sosta only a few miles away, at Castiglione D”Orcia, which has not one, but two castles. It is also the most untouristy place we have visited, with the result that bar and cafes are hard to find. This area is a UNESCO site, because of the beauty of the surrounding countryside - and the views are spectacular. At midday it was all rather hazy - maybe if we get up early….yeah, right. We have had a pleasant walk around the town, found a good Co-Op for groceries, and met a very elderly lady who was having trouble walking, but was pushing a trolley that contained a very fat pug. We joked and laughed with her, despite our having no common language, and was happy for me to take a photo. She could certainly see how bizarre it seemed. We have located a likely looking trattoria, and plan to eat there this evening.
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| she struggles to walk - and the pug gets to ride |
To get there we followed Sally satnav, as usual, and she took us up a very narrow, twisty and steep hill into the town - first gear all they way. Luckily we didn’t meet anything coming the other way.
Later - we ate at Trattoria il Cassero di Claudio e Maria. Just husband and wife, neither of whom had any English, but the menu was also in English, as was their strapline “Life is too short to eat bad and drink even worse”. Meal was excellent - recommended!
N43.0026 E11.6158, height 1820 feet.
Thurs 22nd June - and the nights are drawing in:(
Lonely Planet recommends another thermal spring not far from here, at Bagni San Filipe, so we ventured forth to visit it. From the description I imagined warm water tumbling over rocks forming pools for a warm frolic, but all we found was a meagre warm trickle. But it is possible we looked in the wrong place…
Instead, we moved on to our next destination, Montepulciano. Our guide says the sosta is closed Thursday mornings for the weekly market, so we made sure we arrived after 12 - and the market is still going, but beginning to wind down. We have parked, temporarily, beside a No Parking sign until we can get onto the sosta - and a Dutch van has pulled in beside us doing the same thing.
Rosemary has gone ashore to do some sketching, while I wait with the van to proffer excuses to traffic wardens, and move into the sosta when it is available, There is a huge amount of rubbish left, but a small roadsweeping machine and a small dustcart, just 2 men, made short work of that. I was impressed by how hard they worked.
Rosemary walked into town, and it is quite a long way, uphill. At the top she discovered there is a bus that goes from right outside the sosta right to the top, So in the evening we caught the last bus up. It is only a tiny bus, but it can't be any bigger - it only just fits into the narrow streets as it is, and then there are tourists walking in the streets and tables from cafes...But walking back is a cinch!
I am having major battles with my laptop. Quite often it refuses to boot, or throws an error. When it throws an error I can get at the self test program - which it always passes!
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| the town hall... |
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| ...and the view from the balcony |
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| The artist observed... |
Rosemary has gone ashore to do some sketching, while I wait with the van to proffer excuses to traffic wardens, and move into the sosta when it is available, There is a huge amount of rubbish left, but a small roadsweeping machine and a small dustcart, just 2 men, made short work of that. I was impressed by how hard they worked.
Rosemary walked into town, and it is quite a long way, uphill. At the top she discovered there is a bus that goes from right outside the sosta right to the top, So in the evening we caught the last bus up. It is only a tiny bus, but it can't be any bigger - it only just fits into the narrow streets as it is, and then there are tourists walking in the streets and tables from cafes...But walking back is a cinch!
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| another lady with dog |
I am having major battles with my laptop. Quite often it refuses to boot, or throws an error. When it throws an error I can get at the self test program - which it always passes!
N43.0968 E11.7875 1824 feet, 1581 miles
Fri 25th June
We caught an early bus into town (by "early", I mean, before 10 am), and it was nice and quiet. We went up the tower of the medieval town hall (walking past grey filing cabinets and racks of files), for some great views. Then Rosemary did more sketching while I meandered back home. Currently I am running an in depth disc check to see if I can sort the laptop problem.
Well the tests ran all day, and found no errors. Hmm
We have booked a meal at Montepulciano's most famous restaurant, Osteria Aquacheta. You can't book a table - tables are shared (and cramped). You can't book a time, only a sitting. There are 2 sittings for lunch and 2 in the evening. We booked for the 7.30 sitting, and got there by 7.15. There was a large crowd outside, waiting for the doors to open. The doors opened precisely at 7.30, and a number of people who hadn't booked weren't allowed in. We were allocated our seats, next to a charming American couple who shared their time between California, Montana, and Europe. He said we had something in common - both our leaders are crazy, but he would swap May and Trump any time.
The speciality of the house is steak - all butchered while you wait. The American asked for a small one, and it was enormous. So big he insisted we had some, and that small one cost €39. Other people were getting HUGE steaks. We knew the steaks would be huge and expensive, and chose local sausages (very salty). We could not possibly have eaten a whole steak, even between us, and it would be criminal to waste it. The American (& I'm ashamed to say I have forgotten his name, but his wife was Robyn) said he thought it was the best steak he had ever had, but the Texan on his other side said the biggest and best steaks came from Texas.
Wine was only €6 a half litre, and was served the traditional way ,- in the same glass as the water. When we left at 9.20 the 9.30 sitting was milling around in the road outside. Narrow street, no pavement, and on the bus route.
I have to mention the buses. The streets are narrow, steep, tight bends, lots of tourists, tables outside cafes, cars and vans parked in odd places, narrow arches, and the bus driver handles it all at speed without flinching. I'm amazed we didn't scrape anything. Some of the arches are so narrow there can only have been an inch either side of the wing mirrors. Did he slow down? Not bloody Likely!
Sat 24th June
We have moved 7 miles to Pienza. Pienza is an absolute gem. In 1459 Pope Pius II began turning his native village onto an ideal Renaissance town. It was rebuilt in just 4 years and hasn't been remodeled since. A papal bull of 1462 forbade any alteration of the duomo. It has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1996.
While we were there a wedding took place in the duomo. Best of all, the bride arrived in a decorated Ape (aka tuk-tuk in Asia). A limousine would not have got round the corners.
I said in an earlier blog that there was ample opportunity to spend money on paintings of Tuscany, none of which I liked. But here we came across a tiny shop, with the artist herself busy painting miniatures commissioned for a wedding. All oil paintings, at very reasonable prices. We found one we liked, and came back later to buy it - and she had sold it:(. No matter, she said, i remember what it was, I'll paint you another. Come back in an hour". But we said we would collect it in the morning.
N43.0776 E11.6893 height 1761 feet
Sun 25th June
We have walked back into Pienz and collected the painting - cost just €45...
... and have moved on about 12 miles to Montalcino. This is the home of Brunello di Montalcino, "one of the world's great wines" (says Lonely Planet). Great prices, too! (as in HUGE). Every year a new advertising image is created, and placed over a seat in the square. Some are pretty good..
From the outside, the town looks spectacular, a castle that looks like a caricature of a castle, a duomo and other grand looking churches, but on closer inspection it doesn't have the character or charm of all the smaller places we have been, or the narrow dark and cool streets. It does have lots of shops selling expensive wine, though.
The sosta here is a mile away, up a steep hill, and walking back after a day tramping the streets is exhausting.
N43.0492 E11.4878 height 2227 feet
We caught an early bus into town (by "early", I mean, before 10 am), and it was nice and quiet. We went up the tower of the medieval town hall (walking past grey filing cabinets and racks of files), for some great views. Then Rosemary did more sketching while I meandered back home. Currently I am running an in depth disc check to see if I can sort the laptop problem.
Well the tests ran all day, and found no errors. Hmm
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| this is one of the wider gates the bus swings through at speed |
We have booked a meal at Montepulciano's most famous restaurant, Osteria Aquacheta. You can't book a table - tables are shared (and cramped). You can't book a time, only a sitting. There are 2 sittings for lunch and 2 in the evening. We booked for the 7.30 sitting, and got there by 7.15. There was a large crowd outside, waiting for the doors to open. The doors opened precisely at 7.30, and a number of people who hadn't booked weren't allowed in. We were allocated our seats, next to a charming American couple who shared their time between California, Montana, and Europe. He said we had something in common - both our leaders are crazy, but he would swap May and Trump any time.
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| 1st sitting for dinner - our American neighbours are on the right |
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| Menu - note the sizes of the steaks |
The speciality of the house is steak - all butchered while you wait. The American asked for a small one, and it was enormous. So big he insisted we had some, and that small one cost €39. Other people were getting HUGE steaks. We knew the steaks would be huge and expensive, and chose local sausages (very salty). We could not possibly have eaten a whole steak, even between us, and it would be criminal to waste it. The American (& I'm ashamed to say I have forgotten his name, but his wife was Robyn) said he thought it was the best steak he had ever had, but the Texan on his other side said the biggest and best steaks came from Texas.
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| The bell is struck by Mr Ponchinello |
I have to mention the buses. The streets are narrow, steep, tight bends, lots of tourists, tables outside cafes, cars and vans parked in odd places, narrow arches, and the bus driver handles it all at speed without flinching. I'm amazed we didn't scrape anything. Some of the arches are so narrow there can only have been an inch either side of the wing mirrors. Did he slow down? Not bloody Likely!
Sat 24th June
We have moved 7 miles to Pienza. Pienza is an absolute gem. In 1459 Pope Pius II began turning his native village onto an ideal Renaissance town. It was rebuilt in just 4 years and hasn't been remodeled since. A papal bull of 1462 forbade any alteration of the duomo. It has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1996.
While we were there a wedding took place in the duomo. Best of all, the bride arrived in a decorated Ape (aka tuk-tuk in Asia). A limousine would not have got round the corners.
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| Duomo - unchanged since 1462 |
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| inside the duomo |
I said in an earlier blog that there was ample opportunity to spend money on paintings of Tuscany, none of which I liked. But here we came across a tiny shop, with the artist herself busy painting miniatures commissioned for a wedding. All oil paintings, at very reasonable prices. We found one we liked, and came back later to buy it - and she had sold it:(. No matter, she said, i remember what it was, I'll paint you another. Come back in an hour". But we said we would collect it in the morning.
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| the view from Pienz |
N43.0776 E11.6893 height 1761 feet
Sun 25th June
We have walked back into Pienz and collected the painting - cost just €45...
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| Portrait of the Artist as a Young Lady |
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| amazing what you see in car boots! |
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| Add caption |
... and have moved on about 12 miles to Montalcino. This is the home of Brunello di Montalcino, "one of the world's great wines" (says Lonely Planet). Great prices, too! (as in HUGE). Every year a new advertising image is created, and placed over a seat in the square. Some are pretty good..
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| Brunello di Montalcino - yearly posters |
From the outside, the town looks spectacular, a castle that looks like a caricature of a castle, a duomo and other grand looking churches, but on closer inspection it doesn't have the character or charm of all the smaller places we have been, or the narrow dark and cool streets. It does have lots of shops selling expensive wine, though.
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| the castle - and its conveniences |
The sosta here is a mile away, up a steep hill, and walking back after a day tramping the streets is exhausting.
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| a view to die for...that's the hospital on the left |
N43.0492 E11.4878 height 2227 feet
Go, Andy and Rosemary! Wish I had your adventurous spirit. Thanks for sharing your travels with us...
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